Hike to Eremo delle Carceri: the isolated hermitage
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If you're interested in the life of Saint Francis (or San Francesco) and want to visit places associated with him, Assisi is the perfect destination. It's also a great starting point for hikes through Umbria's lush hills. But what if you want to combine both? In that case, I suggest hiking to the Eremo delle Carceri (you can also reach the site by car). Tucked high into the forested slopes of Mount Subasio, this quiet sanctuary still feels like the hidden retreat it was meant to be.
The Eremo delle Carceri is a hermitage situated about 5 kilometers from Assisi's historic center. The name 'Carceri' comes from Latin and means 'isolated places' or 'prisons.' It refers to the small caves where Francis and his followers withdrew to meditate and pray in solitude and silence.
While hiking to the Eremo delle Carceri, you'll be treated to stunning views of Assisi and the Umbrian landscape.
Although the hermitage may be just 5 kilometers away, it sits 791 meters above sea level. That means you're in for an uphill climb and you'll need a decent level of fitness. I also definitely recommend wearing proper walking shoes. Especially on rainy days, some of the steeper parts get very slippery. I once made the mistake of walking the trail on All-Stars... not my smartest choice!
In this post, I'll first briefly describe how to reach the Eremo delle Carceri on foot. Then, I'll share what you can expect when visiting the hermitage itself. So, lace up your shoes, and let's get going!
Getting to the hermitage
The hike, which takes about 1 to 1.5 hours, begins right in front of the Chiesa di Santa Caterina (Google Maps). When you're facing the church, turn right onto Via Eremo delle Carceri. Within a couple of minutes, you'll reach the Porta dei Cappuccini, one of the old gates into the city. Walk through it, and almost immediately on your left, you'll see the start of the walking path (Trail 350). That's where the real adventure begins.
The Porta dei Cappuccini (top left) is only a couple of minutes away from the Chiesa di Santa Caterina. After walking through the gate, you'll see the starting point of the route (top right). Follow the path until you reach the Rocca Minore. Standing right beside the small fortress, you get a fantastic view of Assisi, the valley, and the Rocca Maggiore (bottom) in the distance. If you're lucky, this spot is one of the best for capturing stunning sunset photos.
Follow the path until you reach the Rocca Minore. This small fortress, built in the second half of the 14th century alongside the Rocca Maggiore, served to protect the town from enemy attacks.
After you pass the fortress, the path curves to the right. From this point on, red and white stripes painted on the trees help you find the way to the Eremo delle Carceri.
Just keep following the red and white stripes with the number 350 painted on trees and rocks. These markings indicate the trail to the Eremo delle Carceri.
As you keep walking, you'll notice the path gradually becomes steeper. But don't let that stop you, and keep going! Eventually, you'll reach a three-way split. Take the middle path, and you're about halfway there. The trail continues uphill, but the vegetation begins to thin out, allowing you to take in the beautiful views of the Umbrian landscape along the way.
As you near the end of the trail, the path levels out. Follow the short ridge until you reach a paved road called Strada Monte Subasio. Turn right onto the road and walk until you reach a small parking area located next to a hairpin turn (Google Maps). Stay on the right and continue walking slightly downhill on this road. In just a few steps, you'll reach the entrance to the Eremo delle Carceri.
The hermitage itself is nestled in a more densely forested area of Mount Subasio. My first visit was on a gloomy day in January 2022. Along sections of the route, I walked through a misty forest that gave the path a mysterious and slightly eerie feel.
Eremo delle Carceri
When Francesco first arrived at the site in 1205, he found a rugged, rocky area with several small caves. These caves were already in use as simple 'cells' where individual friars could retreat for solitude and prayer. Besides small caves, there also was a humble oratory where the friars gathered for communal prayer. The chapel would later become known as the Oratory of Santa Maria.
Over the centuries, the hermitage expanded to accommodate the growing Franciscan community. In the early 15th century, Saint Bernardino of Siena initiated the construction of a small friary, which included a refectory, choir, and dormitory, all integrated into the natural rock formations. This friary exemplifies the Franciscan ideals of simplicity and harmony with nature.
At the entrance to the inner courtyard of the complex, a sign reading "Silencio" reminds visitors that this is still a place for silent retreat and worship. Just above it, a plaque bears the Latin phrase "Ubi Deus ibi pax", meaning "Where there is God, there is peace." It expresses the belief that being close to God brings calm and harmony.
Before you start exploring the complex, please note that the Eremo delle Carceri remains a place of silent retreat and worship. You'll see signs marked silencio along the way, reminding you to walk and speak quietly. Personally, I think this adds something special to the experience. The silence lets the forest speak. Hearing the wind in the trees, the calls of birds, and the crunch of your footsteps help create a peaceful atmosphere.
If you're following the numbered path, the Refectory will be your first stop. This was the place where the friars took their meals. Some frescoes still remain on its barrel-vaulted ceiling and walls, including a depiction of the "Last Supper."
The visit to the Eremo delle Carceri begins in the courtyard. From there, you can step into the small friary, which includes a modest choir and a simple refectory. The original wooden choir stalls and the refectory tables, dating back to the 15th century, are still preserved and visible today.
After visiting the Refectory and Dormitory, the next stop is the Chiesa di San Bernardino. Above the altar of this small church is a fresco of the "Crucified Christ with Our Lady, St. John the Evangelist, and St. Francis, who is kneeling" (middle right and bottom).
At some point, you reach a narrow passage that leads down to the Grotto di San Francesco. Francis used this cave for sleeping, praying, and meditating. As you'll see, the space offers no luxury at all, just the simplicity and humility he embraced.
Just outside the exit door of the Grotto di San Francesco, you'll spot a quatrefoil-shaped hole in the smooth pink stone. This is the "Devil Hole," which looks into a shallow crevasse where St. Francis is said to have thrown a demon that tempted Brother Rufino. Today, many visitors toss coins into the hole.
The Oratorio di Santa Maria (left) is the oldest building (13th century) built on the rock above Francis' cave. It was the first place that the fraternity of the hermitage used for communal prayer, prior to the construction of the choir. The fresco above the altar depicts "Our Lady enthroned with the Child Jesus and saints." Tiberio d'Assisi painted it over a faintly visible scene of the "Crucifixion." From the oratory, pass through the Choir of San Bernardino and the Ancient Sacristy to descend to the Cave of San Francesco (right).
From the exit of Francis' cave, you also see a path leading into the forest. Walking through this forest leads you past the caves and chapels where other companions of Francis retreated.
To reach the forest, you need to cross a stone bridge first. Next to the bridge stands a large holm oak. According to legend, this is the tree where a group of birds gathered to be blessed by Francis, who said:
"O birds, my dear brothers and sisters," the Saint said, "you should always praise your Creator. For God has given you feathers and wings for flying. He provides you with pure air and cares for you, so that you have no need to worry at all."
Inside the Basilica di San Francesco, a famous fresco by Giotto depicts this scene.
Next to the old stone bridge, you'll spot a holm oak (top left). According to tradition, this is the tree where a group of birds gathered to be blessed by Francis. Giotto painted this scene, known as the "Sermon to the Birds," inside the Basilica di San Francesco (top right). Since the oak leans partly over the edge of the ravine, metal brackets now support it. As you walk further into the forest, you'll come across some of the caves where Francis's followers once retreated. The one you see here (bottom) belonged to Brother Leone, one of his closest companions.
Finally, as you leave the forest and head toward the exit, you come across the Chapel of Santa Maria Maddalena. Inside is the tomb of Fra Barnaba of Terni. He was the founder of the first "Monte di Pietà," an institution where people in need exchanged valuable items for loans.
Practical information
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